In the footsteps of Daniel Sempere…

Just last Sunday, I finished reading “The Shadow of the Wind” by Carlos Ruiz Zafón.  It’s probably now one of my favorite books, and, yes, it probably has something to do with the fact that I live in the city where it’s set.  In addition, though, I credit Zafón and his incredible writing.  I have never been 200-some pages (hard to tell how many exactly since I was reading it on my phone) away from finishing a book and decided to read the whole night through until 6 a.m. the following morning just to know how it would end.  That’s what happened to me with this book, and, even though I was destroyed for that entire following day, I don’t regret it because it probably etched the experience of reading the story in my memory forever (and made it more special).

And that’s even before telling you about my day today.

When I was asked what I wanted to do earlier today, I had the idea of walking around Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter to visit the places depicted in the book.  As soon as I said it, I was on the hunt for any sort of fan-made maps or whatever to help make the journey easier.  Within minutes, I found that the author himself drafted a map of the important story landmarks for any fan who wanted to follow in the footsteps of the book’s protagonist, Daniel Sempere.

Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s “La Sombra del Viento” Walking Tour Map

The first place we visited was Carrer de Santa Ana where Daniel and his father’s house and bookshop are located in the book.  Now, of course, there’s no real world marker to figure out which of the apartments was his, but that was just part of the fun.  We had to re-read some of the passages to try to figure out where it might be and let our imagination do the rest.  We spent a good 10-15 minutes investigating the street until we decided on where we thought it was.

Already inspired, we set off to Carrer Canuda to check out the Ateneu Barcelonès, an 18th century palace that houses a library, restaurant, garden and lots of rooms and spaces that promote intellectual and cultural debates, and where Daniel meets Clara Barceló.

When we arrived, the man working at the information desk told us that the building was only accessible to paid members and only to the general public when there was an event which, of course, was not today.  We clearly looked disappointed because the man looked around and told us that we could sneak up quickly while the security guard was off on a cigarette break and see as much of it as we wanted. He showed us to the elevator and, after thanking him, were on our way up to the library, giddy with excitement.

The moment we stepped into the library, my jaw hit the floor.  It was the most beautiful library I had ever seen! The energy, on top of the fact that it clearly was an 18th century library, was so powerful and yet incredibly calming.  We saw a few people sitting at these beautiful wooden desks in beautiful wooden chairs in a room with glass cases lining the walls from top to bottom containing books that I could clearly see were hundreds of years old.  I was in total awe of the place!

Ateneu Barcelonès Library

We were already infused with energy and inspiration but knew we had to keep our cool because “Members Only” signs were posted all over the place, and we didn’t want to be too obvious.  So, we calmly walked around, studying the books, desks, paintings, etc. and sneaking the occasional photo, which wasn’t allowed.  We also envisioned the scenes from the book set in the building and decided that it more than surpassed what we had envisioned in our minds while reading them.

 

Exploring the library

Dalí telling us to keep quiet

I think we were there for about an hour before we finally managed to scrape ourselves away from all of the intriguing things walled inside the massive building.  I had already declared this place a hidden oasis and said I would renounce my gym membership in order to become a member, and I meant it.  And, as far as I was concerned, our tour could have ended right then and there, and I would have been happy.  But, it didn’t!

Once we were back on the crowded streets, we knew where we needed to go next: The Cemetery of Forgotten Books.  Being a fictional place like Daniel’s house was, all we had to go on was the name of the street, Carrer de l’Arc del Teatre, so we made for the Rambla and started the short walk down.

Carrer de l’Arc del Teatre

Upon arrival, I could already picture where I thought the entry to “the Cemetery” was and, without having much to photograph or save as a memory, Isa noticed a curious pigeon who was watching us from a whole cut into a metal door.

The curious pigeon

After photographing the bird, and him scaring us as he jumped out and flew away squawking, we walked back to the Rambla and set off on a strategic route to hit three more locations before arriving to our final destination for the day.

 

The first two were only a block away.  We went to Plaça Reial to visit where Barceló’s house was and to walk under the archway that acts as one of the exits from the plaza onto Carrer Ferran, and where Daniel meets Fermín Romero de Torres, one of my favorite characters, for the first time.

Archway at Plaça Reial leading to Carrer Ferran

We then walked up Carrer Ferran and happened by a bookshop, Libreria Sant Jordi, and decided to take a peak since it seemed to be inviting us in.  We stumbled upon Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s other books, and Isa decided to buy the next book in the series, The Angel’s Game, citing the magic of the tour as the reason for wanting to buy it right then.

Book in tow, we now headed to the penultimate stop, and one we had already visited many times before: Plaça de Felip Sant Neri.  This plaza is one of the most hauntingly beautiful and powerful places in Barcelona, and it featured as an important setting for a handful of scenes in the book, so this stop was a must.  Visiting it again after having read the book made the experience of sitting in the small square all the more enchanting.

I sat on the ledge of the fountain that occupies the center of the square and looked around at the surroundings.  Again, with the descriptions from the book, and knowing what this place meant to the story, I let myself picture the events from the plot play out in my imagination.  There were a bunch of tourists there, taking their photos and chatting away, but it was as if they weren’t even there for me.  It was such a cool moment!

Feeling that we had fulfilled more than what we had hoped for, it was time to head to the famous “Els Quatre Gats” where we would have vermouth and reflect on the tour and the book.

This cafe/bar/restaurant is most known for as the gathering place of Catalunya’s most famous artists during the “Modernisme” period, namely Pablo Picasso. Since then, it’s become a staple of the Barcelona scene and, naturally, it’s also referenced in the book. What better place to end the tour?

Vermouth at Els Quatre Gats at Carrer Montsió

I haven’t started reading the next book in the series yet, but I imagine that, once I’ve finished, I’ll want to embark on another Zafón-inspired journey through the heart of Barcelona to feel closer to the characters, and, mainly, feel even closer to my city.

Els Quatre Gats

Blood Moon Eclipse

Photo Credit: Isa Troya

Yesterday, we enjoyed the blood moon eclipse the best we could up from Carretera de les Aigües in Barcelona.  The sky wasn’t completely clear, but we managed to get some cool shots.  These photos are from Isa’s camera and mega lens.

Photo Credit: Isa Troya

“The moon is a loyal companion.
It never leaves. It’s always there, watching, steadfast, knowing us in our light and dark moments, changing forever just as we do. Every day it’s a different version of itself. Sometimes weak and wan, sometimes strong and full of light. The moon understands what it means to be human.
Uncertain. Alone. Cratered by imperfections.”
― Tahereh Mafi

Not only is the moon a reflection of us, but a lunar event like this is a good reminder that we aren’t the center of the universe, that nature can offer us some of the greatest wonders in life, and all for free.

 

 

Catalans’ Fight for Independence

Catalans filled Gran Via on “La Diada” back on September 30th, 2014.

I arrived in Barcelona in December of 2013. It’s been a love affair that has lit up my life from the first day I set foot on its streets.

I fell in love immediately with its customs, traditions, food, and people. I’d never been in a place like this before. It’s a place full of beautiful buildings, parks, museums, etc., all sandwiched between the Mediterranean Sea and the Collserola mountains. It’s a vibrant, peaceful city that’s very open and international. There’s a little bit of everything here, so it’s easy to find your place amidst its constant activity.

It’s situated in a region called Catalunya. I didn’t know anything about it or its capital before I got here, but I’ve grown to be quite familiar with what makes it so unique. I have gone out to the city-wide and neighborhood-wide festivals year after year where you can see human towers, giants, fire-wielding devils, thunderous drum squads, traditional dances, etc. filling the streets. It’s a place where almost every weekend seems to bring something to celebrate.

The “diables” in action at the 2017 La Mercè “correfoc.”

I remember the first “La Diada” I witnessed back on September 11th, 2014. It’s Catalunya’s National Day, a day that marks the anniversary of the city being captured by King Felipe V’s soldiers back in 1714. As it was about to observe the tricentenial of that day, the preparations for the celebration were massive, and they stretched it out over a 7-day period. It was a city that was lit up and ready to celebrate. I wanted to see and do everything on the agenda. One of the many things I remember was a mobile application that was created for the holiday. It was an audio-guided walking tour of the emblematic places of Barcelona related to the War of the Spanish Succession and, in particular, the Siege of Barcelona. Upon visiting the different sites, the application told you what had happened there, pointing different details out to you, and then asked you questions, which you had to answer correctly to earn badges. It was really well done, and I can still remember feeling as if I was walking across the pages of a history book. How cool that a city put something like that together simply for a holiday!

The giants making their way down Carrer Ferran.

After six days of commemorative acts and events across the city, the big day arrived: September 11th. I can honestly say that I had never seen a city so fired up with energy and excitement before in my life. The Catalan Independence flag was everywhere. You couldn’t look in any direction without seeing a sea of red, yellow and blue. I didn’t quite get why, but I soon learned that this was going to be a massive, united cry to the world for independence. I got goosebumps seeing the Gran Via and Diagonal avenues filled by Catalans, creating a red-and-yellow-striped “V,” for “Vote,” where the streets intersected, and hearing their chants of “In, In-De, Independencia!” and their singing of “Els Segedors,” Catalunya’s national anthem. I remember reading that 1.8 million Catalans turned out for the manifestation. Being one of those people was pretty surreal, especially being somewhat new to the city still.

Fast-forward three years, and I am no longer a stranger to Barcelona or Catalan culture. In fact, I’ve recently decided to learn the mother tongue here, Catalan, a decision which I’m so happy to have made. Back when I first heard it spoken, I didn’t like it very much, but learning it has made me appreciate it so much that I now find that I really love it. I can speak with Catalans in their language, something they are tremendously proud and protective of. For them to see someone like me, who clearly isn’t from here, making an effort to connect with them in their tongue, makes them beam and get excited. It’s not just that I can speak it, either. I can read their newspapers and books and watch their news and TV series, feeling more connected with all things Catalan than I had before.

One of the many vigils set up on La Rambla after the August 17th terrorist attack.

The terrorist attack at La Rambla on August 17th also helped in that sense, as the city banned together to stand up against hate and for love in response. The sense of unity and peaceful defiance here was arresting and contagious.

The same can be said about its fight for independence.

As the world has seen, it’s been a pretty chaotic few weeks here. We’re now on the verge of an independence referendum that is being fiercely contested by the Spanish government. It has an all-or-nothing type of feel to it, as Catalans are determined to have this be the vote to end its ties with Spain, even in spite of it being deemed illegal.

The “castellers” performing at Plaça Sant Jaume during La Merçe 2017.

The people here are ready to be heard, and they’ve been voicing their opinions in various ways. After the Guardia Civil was sent in on September 20th to detain members of those organizing the referendum, the city has organized itself, something Catalans are experts at, and mobilized. Immediately afterwards, citizens took to the streets to protest, a showing that lasted through the night and into the following day. Every evening since, at 10 o’clock, those in favor of the referendum step out onto their balconies and terraces, or hang out their windows, to bang on their pots and pans for 15 minutes as a call for solidarity. It’s become the soundtrack to our dinners.

There have been numerous demonstrations across the city. Groups of referendum supporters have been going out each night to plaster the neighborhoods with posters and flyers and also to paint the sidewalks to remind people to get out and vote. Farmers have rolled into town, ready to protect the people at polling stations, mostly schools, so that the vote can go on without interruption. High school and university students held their own march and protest, letting the city, Spain, and world, know that they have a say, too.

Windows and balconies are adorned by Catalan flags and posters in favor of the referendum.

I can’t say that I’m for or against Catalan independence. It’s not my history nor my fight. I’ll use the words of the mother of one of my students, “I’m just a peaceful international observer.”

What I will say is that I do support what it means to be Catalan. If it turns out that the majority of those castellers, gegants, diables, tabalers, etc. want their own country, then so be it.

I’ll still love this place I’ve called home for almost four years now.

Photos by Isabel Troya (@isatroyaphotography)